Kyoto in Autumn

I had wanted to see Kyoto in the autumn for years, and it was everything I hoped. The maples turn every shade from gold to deep red, and for about two weeks the whole city seems to be outside looking at them.

Early mornings

The trick in Kyoto is to get up early. At seven in the morning the famous temples are nearly empty, the gravel in the gardens has just been raked, and you can hear the wind in the trees. By ten the tour buses arrive, which is the perfect time to go find breakfast.

Eating our way through Nishiki

Nishiki Market is a narrow covered street of stalls that goes on for blocks. We grazed: grilled mochi, pickles of every color, tiny octopus on a stick (once was enough), and a matcha soft serve that I still think about.

Every line we stood in was worth it. Every single one.

A day trip to Nara

Nara is an easy train ride away. The deer in the park bow to you, and then they very politely try to eat your map. The giant Buddha at Tōdai-ji is bigger than any photo can show.

---

If you go:

• Book rooms early. Autumn is the busiest season of the year.
• Get a rechargeable IC card for buses and trains.
• Carry cash. Many small restaurants don’t take cards.